In June I bagged out on doing one of the tentpole events of my cycling season, Outriders, due to a bad weather forcast. This decision was clearly going to bug the crap out of me for a long time to come, so there was only one thing to do. Do the ride on my own.
Cancel a ride based on a forecast? This aggression will not stand. |
Well, kind of on my own. I've been riding increasingly long distances with a few friends this year. They generally aren't yet ready for an unsupported 130 mile/210 km ride. Fortunately, the MBTA has a solution: The Cape Flyer train. This train runs from Boston to Hyannis on the Cape with a stop in Bourne very close to where the Sagamore Bridge hits the Cape. You can take bikes on this train via a dedicated bike car. Now, if you live in a European country that all seems kind of obvious. But here in the States it's sort of amazing. The MBTA has a pretty long history of outright hostility to bicycles. Anyway, it was a good option. I'd meet Jay and Richard about halfway after cycling the first half solo.
There was a whole lot of hemming and hawing about dates for the ride and everyone's equipment set up. I put a third waterbottle cage on the bike as well as a larger top tube bag for more on the bike food. There was also some last minute negotiation about where to meet up and should it be in Plymouth instead of the bridge. The former Christmas Tree Shop across the bridge remained the meet up spot.
Three bottle cages, not two. |
Then at the last minute (two days prior to the ride) my friend Alan decided to join me for the whole shebang. Alan is a regular bike commuter and said he had done a century ride. I knew he had done a lot of touring, so I figured he knew his cycling abilities well enough to judge he could do this kind of distance. We agreed to meet up and get rolling at 5:15 AM on Sunday. I prepped my bike and kit on Saturday afternoon. Tires pumped, trunk bag packed, vest and flip flops bungeed to the outside of the trunk because the small five liter bag wasn't quite large enough. I even made a breakfast to warm up on Sunday morning.
It did feel like we had a lot of moving parts that could break. Would Alan or I oversleep? Would the train be delayed? Richard ended up in a hotel partway to Bourne so he could go to a concert the night before. What if someone had a bad mechanical? On that point we did have partial coverage. There is a shuttle bus service out on the Cape that does go to Provincetown and their buses have bike racks. This would cover three of the four of us, since Alan rides a recumbent. Worthwhile to note that between the Cape Flyer train and the bus system, you could do a car free vacation on Cape Cod.
Oversleep? Heck the first hurdle was getting to sleep early on Saturday night! Well, after a while I managed to get a bit of sleep. My alarm went off at 4:30 AM and I was up. I hit brew on the coffee maker, started warming my breakfast, and checked that my bike tires hadn't gone flat overnight. Alan texted me, so I knew he was up and good to go. I got ready in short order.
After some last minute fiddling with my little bluetooth speaker, we were off. We passed one medical worker on her bike ride to the hospital. I think she was a bit surprised to see anyone out at that early hour. Riding along the Emerald Necklace along Jamaica Pond was really nice at such an early hour.
It was cool out, but the humidity was off the walls. As long as you were moving on the bike it was alright. The forecast was for moderate temperatures with cloud cover the whole day.
Stopping in Quincy for a quick photo op at the President John Adams statue |
Roxbury, Dorchester, and Quincy are fairly urban and built up. The riding isn't exactly scenic. It takes a while to get through this chunk. I think Alan was a bit like "Uh, when is this ride going to get beautiful?" And the crazy thing with the route is it that it just kind of happens suddenly. Around Weymouth or so they flip the switch and it feels increasingly rural.
Refilling water bottles |
When we hit the road we were faced with some rolling up and down hills before we got to the bridge. Somewhere along here (hmm, maybe earlier) I found my first cell phone of the day. It was by the side of the road with a cracked but functional display. It wasn't locked. So, I threw it in my trunk to try and return it to its rightful owner. As of this writing, I'm still working on that!
Jay kindly pointing out we're a bit late |
The building is pretty heavily themed, so there was something of an abandoned amusement park vibe to meeting up there. People had been stopping by asking if it was closed or not. I think three different carloads of disappointed scented candle seeking people stopped by while I was there. The chain only recently entered some kind of bankruptcy protection and clearly not everyone has heard.
Pit stop on Higgens Crowell Road. |
The trail extension in Yarmouth goes through a golf course. It's kind of narrow and has some very hostile fences at road crossings that force you to dismount. It's meant to prevent (heavens forefend) inconveniencing drivers, but it ends up with them waiting longer while cyclists mount & dismount in the crosswalk. We stopped at a public restroom that has a water fountain. Unfortunately, the fountain was non-functional and we were all running low on water. We poured off water to make sure that everyone had about a bottle each and ate a bit of food.
Past the 100 mile mark on the rail trail, Jay & Alan are in the background |
Finally, we got to Wellfleet and the near mandatory stop at the PB Boulangerie for coffee and croissants. The line was slow but it was totally worth it. If they didn't have kouign amann I was hoping to get an almond croissant. Since I was fumbling with my mask I let Jay in ahead of me.
Gentleman fixing my iced coffee. No kouign amann, no almond croissant. |
Jay was very happy with his almond croissant. He said "I regret nothing" |
After leaving the PB Boulangerie we continued up Lecount Hollow Road to Oceanview Road. "Oh, guys, I promise you this is one of the most lovely bits of cycling anywhere. The view is just tremendous." We got up there and ... we were totally socked in by fog. I'm not even sure we could hear the ocean. Oh well. When we left the boulangerie I turned on music for the first time in the day. You know, just to play some Edith Piaf for Jay. I left it on, so we got to hear a bit of Little Richard as we rode along Ocean View Road.
Jay does regret not buying new cycling shoes. |
Alan swapping out water bottles |
Finally we saddled up, and took that last insulting climb up. Is it a single climb with a false summit? Two climbs? More than that? No climb at all according to Richard's bike computer? Well, authorities differ. All I can say is we finally crested it and were rewarded with a clear view of Provincetown. The descent to Beach Point was fast and whoop filled.
We made it! |
After a slow ride down Commercial Street we made it to Canteen. There wasn't a whole lot of time so we bought our dinners to go, intending on eating them on the ferry. I ran into a couple coworkers and said hello.
Chocolate Frappe from Lewis Bros Ice Cream |
I made a point of getting a frappe. Really, it's an excellent recovery beverage. Between the frappe, the sandwich, and a water bottle on the ferry, I avoided any post ride leg cramping. I did have some pickle juice at the ready.
Hanging out while I get frappes for me & Alan |
On the ferry back to Boston |
Tofu banh mi from Canteen |
Provincetown receding into the distance as we depart |
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